Now, I’ve heard it all…. drunk driving charges on a bar stool? Sheesh. Here’s the story (thanks Deron!).
TAGS [ DRUNK DRIVING | BAR STOOL DRIVING | DRINKING AND DRIVING | BEER NEWS ]
Archive for March, 2009
Beer Has Gas!
Monday, March 30th, 2009It’s no secret that to be successful in any field, one must stay informed and educated. Lucky for me, in the beer business, furthering your knowledge usually amounts to a pretty good time. Last week, I attended an advanced draft beer training course called The Dispense Institute. Yep, that’s right – I got to go to beer school.
For three days I took notes, tapped kegs, controlled temperature, played with the pressure and talked beer with my classmates. I learned more than I could ever squeeze into one blog post, so I’ll limit my knowledge regurgitation to one simple point that really hit home; beer has gas!
If you think back to your days in chemistry class, you’ll remember that when chilled, gasses contract. This being said, if the beer you’re serving is too cold the gas will contract and your beer will seem flat. Often times, we’re inclined to remedy this by increasing the pressure, however that can actually cause more problems! Once the beer hits a warm esophagus and the gasses expand again, whoever is drinking the now-over-carbonated beer will quickly fill up with gas. In bars and restaurants this is bad news because they will likely feel fuller, sooner and not order as much beer.
In the same sense, if you tap a keg that is too warm, the gasses have expanded and you’re going to end up with a lot of foam coming out of your faucet. Bartenders are inclined to dump the foam and keep pouring, without realizing there’s even a problem. This is unfortunate, as the more foam you dispense or "bleed off," the more you lower the gas content of the beer. Your foam dumping will quickly cause your keg to go flat. Who wants flat beer?
Keep your kegs at a cool 38°F and you’ll be on the right track! Need a little help? Try a SmartStrip and you’ll be on your way to better beer.
For more common problems and their solutions, see our troubleshooting guide, or feel free to post your questions right here on the KegWorks Blog! With 6 official beer scholars in the building already, we’d be happy to help!
TAGS [ DRAFT BEER | DRAFT BEER SCHOOL | DRAFT BEER TIPS | DRAFT BEER TROUBLESHOOTING | FOAMY BEER | FLAT BEER ]
Announcing the Coles 75th Anniversary Homebrew Competition
Monday, March 30th, 2009Any homebrewers in the Buffalo area should take a look! (Thanks for passing this along, Deron).
Official Call for Entries
Have you ever dreamed of having your favorite homebrew recipe scaled up and brewed professionally? Or, have you ever thought about how great it would be if your beer was served at a premier beer bar? Well, Flying Bison Brewing Company and Coles Restaurant are about to make these dreams a reality for one lucky homebrewer.
On June 6, 2009, Coles will select one homebrewer’s beer to be the restaurant’s "75th Anniversary Beer". The winning homebrewer’s recipe will then be brewed professionally at Flying Bison Brewing Company in Buffalo, New York with the winner’s help and complete participation. And in the winter of 2009, the beer will be unveiled at a "launch party" at Coles powered and promoted by WNY ad agency, Crowley Webb and Associates.
Think of it…your beer…served at Coles…and a party celebrating your awesomeness to boot!
All you have to do is follow the rules:
1. Brew your favorite Pale Ale/IPA, Amber Ale, Brown Ale, Stout and/or Porter
2. Only entries in these five styles will be accepted.
3. Drop off or ship two (2) 10-14 oz. bottles to Flying Bison Brewing Company (491 Ontario Street, Buffalo NY 14207) with completed entry forms, bottle tags, and $5 dollars for each entry.
Download Entry Form (PDF)
Download Bottle Tags (PDF)
4. Entries are accepted now through May 30, 2009.
In addition to the "Best of Show" prize detailed above, first place winners in each of the five categories will receive a $100.00 gift certificate to Coles. Ribbons and certificates will also be awarded to the top three entries in each category. This is a BJCP sanctioned competition.
Complete rules can be found on the attached entry and bottle tag forms and soon at flyingbisonbrewing.com
For further information, please contact Kyle Costello at kmcostello@mac.com
or 716.868.4542.
Judges and stewards also needed, so please help out if you are available. Those interested in judging and stewarding, please contact Kyle Costello.
Happy Brewing and Good Luck!
TAGS [ HOMEBREW | HOMEBREWING | HOME BREW | FLYING BISON | HOME BREW CONTEST | BEER BREWING CONTEST | HOMEBREW CONTEST ]
Your Guide to Building a Home Bar: How to Install Bar Foot Rails
Friday, March 27th, 2009Wow, we’re really chugging along here in the Guide to Building a Home Bar series. So far, we’ve covered:
1. Exploring Your Options
2. Layout and Design
3. Building Yourself vs. Hiring Out
4. Refrigeration, Part 1: Standard Refrigeration and Draft Beer Systems
5. Refrigeration, Part 2: Wine Refrigeration, Beverage Centers and Ice Machines
6. Look and Feel
7. About Bar Foot Rails and Arm Rests
8. Bar Foot Rails: Before You Order
Today, we’ll instruct you on how to install your bar rails yourself.
How to Install Bar Foot Rails
Installing bar foot rails is a rather easy project. This guide will walk you through what you need make it happen.
Installing bar foot rails is a rather easy project. This guide will walk you through what you need make it happen.
Video: How to Install Bar Foot Rails
Tools for Installation
You’ll Need:
You’ll Need:
- Electric Drill/Electric Screwdriver
- Hack Saw/Cut-off Saw
- Phillips Screwdriver
- File
- Channel Lock Pliers
Preparing for Installation
When installing bar foot rails, preparation is key. A little bit of prep will eliminate waste and/or mistakes.
When installing bar foot rails, preparation is key. A little bit of prep will eliminate waste and/or mistakes.
Make it easy for yourself and follow our detailed preparation instructions.
Our tubing is sent to you wrapped in a layer of plastic film to protect the metal finish. You should try to keep this covering in place as long as possible while you’re working on installing your rails. The film will help to protect your rails from scratches or dings that could damage them during installation.
If you need to cut or lengthen the standard lengths or tubing, it is necessary for you to make those adjustments before assembling your system. To do this, first, measure and mark where you will need to cut your tubing. When determining tube cut lengths, keep in mind that the splicing joints should be hidden within a bracket. Make sure that you double-check all of your measurements before you cut.
See How to Cut Tubing Instructions.
Next, you’ll want to use a pencil to mark where your brackets will go on the bar face. To hold the screws in place, the bracket requires a solid backing at least 3/4-inch deep, so now is a good time to make sure that your surface is able to support the brackets.
Installation
Once you are comfortable with the placement of
your brackets and rails, you’re ready to attach them to your bar or wall.
Once you are comfortable with the placement of
your brackets and rails, you’re ready to attach them to your bar or wall.
Begin by attaching the brackets securely to the wall with mounting screws along the first straight section of your bar.
If you’re installing your rail around a corner, you’ll need to securely attach the elbow to the installed foot rail first. Then, attach the second loosely assembled foot rail section to the elbow.
Once all of your brackets are firmly installed, secure the loose tubing to the brackets with setscrews.
You’re almost done! All that’s left to do is attach your end caps and secure any finials and elbows.
Some end caps require setscrews whereas others simply slide into or over your tubing.
If your end caps do require setscrews, it is possible that you may need to drill pilot holes to attach them.
If this is the case, see How to Drill Holes Instructions.
If you’re using a wall flange in place of a support bracket, make sure to slide the flange onto the tube before securing that section of foot rail to the bar. Remember that you can only replace a support bracket with a flange, if the flange is mounted to a solid backing.
Special Circumstances
Cutting Tubing
You may have to make adjustments to the length of the tubing that you purchase, to make it the perfect size for your bar. Tubing typically comes in lengths from 2-feet to 8-feet, so if the front face of your bar is 9-feet you will need to buy an 8-foot piece of tubing and a 2-foot piece of tubing. You’ll want to cut the 2-foot piece and join the two sections.
You may have to make adjustments to the length of the tubing that you purchase, to make it the perfect size for your bar. Tubing typically comes in lengths from 2-feet to 8-feet, so if the front face of your bar is 9-feet you will need to buy an 8-foot piece of tubing and a 2-foot piece of tubing. You’ll want to cut the 2-foot piece and join the two sections.
For Brass Tubing
You can use either a hacksaw or a powered radial arm saw to cut brass tubing.
It is very important that your cuts be square to the length of the tube.
If you are using a hacksaw, use a miter box to be sure your cuts are straight.
If you are using a powered radial saw arm, use a fine-toothed blade or an abrasive wheel.
After cutting the rail, you will want to file it to smooth the edge.
For Stainless Steel Tubing
Stainless steel is a harder alloy than brass so for stainless steel tubing you’ll want to use a powered radial arm saw with a carbon tip blade.
It is very important that your cuts be square to the length of the tube.
As with the brass tubing, you’ll want to file stainless steel after you’ve cut it, to smooth the edge.
Splicing
To join two pieces of tubing together, you will need to insert internal connectors called splices. Splices are typically metal pieces that are inserted into the end of each tube. We’re fond of brass splices, as brass is softer and easier to bend and insert into tubing.
To join two pieces of tubing together, you will need to insert internal connectors called splices. Splices are typically metal pieces that are inserted into the end of each tube. We’re fond of brass splices, as brass is softer and easier to bend and insert into tubing.
To insert a splice into a tube, compress the splice with a pair of channel lock pliers and push the splice into the end of the first piece of tubing. Then, do the same with the other end of the splice and insert it into the second piece of tubing that you want to connect.
For the best look, you’ll want to make sure that that the not-so-good looking joints are concealed inside of a fitting.
Drilling Holes
We’re all about convenience here at KegWorks, so when you buy foot rail components from us, the setscrews that come with them are self-drilling/self-tapping screws, which have tips that resemble a miniature drill bit and you can use them with a power screwdriver.
We’re all about convenience here at KegWorks, so when you buy foot rail components from us, the setscrews that come with them are self-drilling/self-tapping screws, which have tips that resemble a miniature drill bit and you can use them with a power screwdriver.
These screws will make their own hole in brass tubing, which eliminates the need for pre-drilling.
Stainless steel tubing however requires pre-drilled holes for the setscrews.
Wall Anchors
Using wall studs is ideal, when installing anything that will bear weight and provide support. If it isn’t possible to use studs, you can use a wall anchor instead, however it is important to determine the correct size and type that you need.
Using wall studs is ideal, when installing anything that will bear weight and provide support. If it isn’t possible to use studs, you can use a wall anchor instead, however it is important to determine the correct size and type that you need.
Should you require wall anchors, we suggest a trip to your local hardware store. Wall anchors come in a variety of sizes and types. The professionals at the hardware store should be able to answer any questions that you might have regarding the best wall anchor for your job.
So, that’s it! That’s all it takes to install bar rails to your home bar. Now that you know how easy it is, you have no reason not to upgrade your bar and set it apart from all the rest.
Our next post in the Guide to Building a Home Bar series will be on Accessorizing Your Bar. Check back soon!
TAGS [ HOME BAR | HOME BARS | BUILDING HOME BAR | BAR RAILS | BAR RAIL | BAR FOOT RAIL | BAR FOOT RAILS | INSTALL BAR FOOT RAILS | INSTALL FOOT RAILS ]
Skittles Vodka
Thursday, March 26th, 2009If you’re a big fan of Skittles and vodka, you now have an opportunity to "Taste the Rainbow" while it mops the floor with you. I’m talking about an intriguing little recipe I stumbled across a couple days ago referred to as "Skittles Vodka" and am really curious to give this a try. If you’ve done this before or have tasted it, drop me a line here on the KW Blog and tell me about your experience. If you’re seeing this recipe for the first time (like I am) and you beat me in trying this out, let me know how it goes.
From what I’ve seen, there are two distinct ways to infuse your favorite vodka with that oh-so-nice Skittleicious flavor: You can try the "all in" approach, which involves dumping all the different flavored Skittles into one bottle of premium vodka, or you can painstakingly separate the Skittles by flavor and put them in individual containers (or glasses).
The basic concept is to soak the Skittles in the vodka for a period of about 24 hours. Personally, I’d push for a little more time than that – just to be sure. After this is done, filter out the sugary sludge at the bottom of your container by pouring the dissolved concoction through a filter into another bottle before chilling and serving. [Note: I've read that the bleached-white coffee filters may make it taste funny… so you are probably best to use an unbleached filter.]
Give it a shot… or two. ;)
Enjoy!
TAGS [ DRINK RECIPES | VODKA RECIPES | SKITTLES VODKA | COCKTAIL RECIPES ]
Top 5 Doppelbocks
Thursday, March 26th, 2009Doppelbock, or "Double Bock", is a Bavarian lager beer first brewed by the monks of St. Francis of Paula. As the name suggests, they are stronger 
than typical Bocks, with an alcohol content ranging from 6% on the low end to some that are above 10%. Historic versions were on the lower range and were considered "liquid bread" by the monks. Most versions I have come across are dark amber to nearly black, but pale versions do exist. If you’re a malt fanatic, this is your beer. One significant trait of Doppelbocks are a thick, creamy persistent head, with stronger versions having impaired head retention, and can display noticeable "legs".
As far as aroma goes, there is an expected strong maltiness with virtually no hop aroma and the presence of dark fruit as well as some roasty chocolate. A lot of doppelbocks have names ending in "-ator", either as a tribute to the prototypical Salvator or to take advantage of the beer’s popularity.
Doppelbocks are hands-down my favorite lager, so this list, like my Christmas beer list, was difficult to compile. I may get a tongue lashing for not including the legendary Ayinger Celebrator here, and while I’ll admit it is an outstanding beer and a classic example of the style, these 5 for me, edged it out. You can’t go wrong with any of them, they are well worth seeking out.
Cheers!
Wagner Valley Sled Dog Trippel Bock
Troegs Troegenator Double Bock
Honorable mention (because I can):
TAGS [ DOPPELBOCKS | DOUBLE BOCKS | DOPPELBOCK | BEER REVIEW | BEER REVIEWS | TOP DOPPELBOCKS ]
Your Guide to Building a Home Bar: Foot Rails: Before You Order
Wednesday, March 25th, 2009Our Guide to Building a Home Bar series has covered the following topics so far:
1. Exploring Your Options
2. Layout and Design
3. Building Yourself vs. Hiring Out
4. Refrigeration, Part 1: Standard Refrigeration and Draft Beer Systems
5. Refrigeration, Part 2: Wine Refrigeration, Beverage Centers and Ice Machines
6. Look and Feel
7. About Bar Foot Rails and Arm Rests
Today, we’ll go through the steps you should take Before You Order Your Foot Rails, to make sure you’re all set for installation.
Before You Order Your Bar Foot Rails
Planning is important to ensure that you purchase the correct components and lengths needed for your foot rail.
Planning is important to ensure that you purchase the correct components and lengths needed for your foot rail.
Remember that you will need three main components: tubing, brackets and end caps. You may also need tube splices, elbows or wall flanges, depending on your bar’s layout.
The following steps will aid you in ensuring that you get exactly what you will need for the perfect foot rail system.
Step 1: Select the type of finish you would like to use
Step 2: Determine how much bar rail you will need
You should measure very carefully before you order bar foot railing.
First, measure each side of the bar that will have a foot railing and make a simple sketch of your foot rail.
You should measure very carefully before you order bar foot railing.
First, measure each side of the bar that will have a foot railing and make a simple sketch of your foot rail.
It’s helpful to make a virtual rail on the floor around your bar, with string or painters’ tape; doing this will help you to visualize how much space you’ll need for your foot rail.
Once you have laid out your design on the floor, measure each section to calculate how much tubing you will need. Tubing comes in lengths from 2-feet to 8-feet, in one-foot increments. So if your bar is longer than 8-feet, you may have to join two pieces of tubing together to make a rail that fits your bar perfectly. Connecting the pieces is easy with a splicer, an internal connector that you insert into the end of each tube.
When you’re determining the length of a tube that will be connected to an elbow and joined with another tube (to round a corner), remember to include the dimensions of your bracket in your measurements.
When ordering tubing, it’s always wise to round up to the nearest foot. If your bar is not an even full foot increment (i.e. 6′, 7′), but rather has some inch increment (i.e. 6’2″, 7’2″) you will need to order up to the next foot. So if your bar is 6’2″ you will need to order a 7-foot piece of tubing, if your bar is 7’2″ you will need to order an 8-foot piece of tubing. When installing your tubing you will need to cut the rail with a miter saw. It’s much easier (and cheaper) to cut off excess tubing than it is to connect more.
Step 3: Select the type of bar brackets you will use
To support your foot rail you’ll need to install brackets that hold the tubing in place and provide stability for the rail. Select your brackets from a variety of styles and finishes, so they too will match the look and feel of your bar.
To support your foot rail you’ll need to install brackets that hold the tubing in place and provide stability for the rail. Select your brackets from a variety of styles and finishes, so they too will match the look and feel of your bar.
How your bar is set up and what materials it is made of may affect your selection of bar brackets. Each of the following options comes in brass and stainless steel.
Basic Bar Brackets
The basic bar bracket mounts directly to the face of your bar, so to install this kind of bracket, you will need access to the back of your bar. It’s easy to mount these bar brackets to the face of the bar with a bolt, however you may need to add depth to the face of your bar to support the weight of the bolt.
Floor Mount Bar Brackets
These brackets bear their weight from your bar floor only. Typically, these work best when working on hard wood flooring, as they mount into your floor with screws.
Combination Bar Brackets
Combination brackets, the most popular type of bracket, mount both to the floor and to the face of your bar. Thus, the weight of the tubing is split between the floor and the face of the bar. As these use regular screws and the floor for support, when installing you do not need access to the back of the bar to secure a bolt.
Step 4: Determine how many bar brackets you will need
You’ll want to make sure your foot rail has the right amount of support, so you’ll need a bracket 6-inches from the end of your tubing or elbow and an additional bracket for every 4-feet of tubing to ensure that your foot rail is nice and sturdy. For example, if you have 8-feet of tubing, you’ll need 1 bracket on each end and 1 in the center, for a total of 3 brackets.
You’ll want to make sure your foot rail has the right amount of support, so you’ll need a bracket 6-inches from the end of your tubing or elbow and an additional bracket for every 4-feet of tubing to ensure that your foot rail is nice and sturdy. For example, if you have 8-feet of tubing, you’ll need 1 bracket on each end and 1 in the center, for a total of 3 brackets.
Measuring for brackets and fittings is especially important when your foot rail turns corners. For example, if you select a bracket that holds the rail 6-inches from the face of the bar, that bracket will add nearly 6-inches to the overall length of rail you will need. So, add the length of the bracket, minus the dimensions of the elbow you will be using.
There are elbows with 90- and 135-degree bends, so you can choose which works best with the layout of your bar.
Once you’ve determined how many brackets, splicers and elbows you’ll need for your project, make a detailed list of those parts, including sizes and quantities. A written list will be a huge help when ordering.
Step 5: Select the type and number of end caps
Adding end caps to your foot rail adds style and a finished look. You can choose from rounded, flat or decorative end caps that all come in a variety of finishes. Whether your end caps are sleek and simple or detailed and ornate, either way they’re super easy to install!
Adding end caps to your foot rail adds style and a finished look. You can choose from rounded, flat or decorative end caps that all come in a variety of finishes. Whether your end caps are sleek and simple or detailed and ornate, either way they’re super easy to install!
If you’re looking to use metal end caps with a wooden rail, just make sure to select end caps that are marked as "external fittings". External fittings are components that fit around the outer diameter the tubing and our wooden rails are solid, so your end caps need to fit around the wood.
In our next post for the Guide to Building a Home Bar series, we’ll teach you how to easily install bar foot rails yourself. Check back soon!
TAGS [ BAR RAILS | BAR FOOT RAILS | FOOT RAILS | FOOT RESTS | HOME BAR | BUILD A HOME BAR | BUILDING A HOME BAR | HOME BAR TIPS ]
